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RV-10 Quick Build Wings

The quick build wings arrived on May 28, 2008 in two large crates. The wings stand on leading edge in the tall crate. Instructions say to lay on side and unload. We left the 400 lb crate standing up, opened the side and had no problem unloading. The smaller crate contains the ailerons, flaps, spar carry through and skins. I'm still working on the tailcone so the wings will stay stored in the cradles for about another month.




Notes and Photos




Not as much to inventory and store as in the tail kit.

Crates on Truck

Unloaded in Cradles

7/11 to 7/16/08


13-4, 16-2

Where to Start
I started by inspecting all the work already completed per the drawings. Building then starts with dwg 13-4 step 6: Tapping the tie downs. Then dwg 16-2 step 2, 3: attaching top skin nutplates. Be careful here in that one of the nutplates has it's screw hole on the end and not in the middle. After that, you might as well do dwg 20-5 step 10: bottom skin nutplates while you are working in the area. They also left one snap bushing off of the inner most rib for the pitot line.

From here, remove the fuel tanks from the wing and either pick up with Stall Warning or Tank Indicator installation.

Quick build wing work seems to jump around rather than follow the drawings in sequential order. So I am going to group this log according section rather than chronological order.

7/12 to 9/1/08



Fuel Tanks
Removing the fuel tanks was straight forward. 21 bolts through the main spar and then a million skin screws.  Many which were over tightened and one had to be drilled and extracted.

I bent the fuel sender floats in my bending brake. I marked the bend line back from the desired length by 3/32" and used that for a set back and they came out perfect.

The fuel senders will hit the bottom stiffener and the top vent line on the first try. I had to bend mine at least 0.5" forward. Note that the left sender float points forward and the right sender float points aft.  That was not clear from the drawings. The fuel tanks should be off of the wing for this step so you can inspect the float position top and bottom by flipping the tank over. Bottom is observed by shining a light through the drain hole and looking in the pick up hole. Top is best observed by using a borescope. Check for full swing of the sender by putting an ohm meter across the sender while you flip the tank over. 

The senders have been prosealed in place. I pressure testing using a balloon over the vent outlet and plugging all other connections. The balloon held up overnight but does eventually bleed down. I took both tanks out back and ran soapy water over them while pressurized and did not find any leaks. As a last precaution, I bought 2 gallons of 100LL and sloshed that around the inside of the tanks. No leaks and I poured the gas out through a coffee filter to see what it may have picked up. No significant debris but I am glad I rinsed them anyway.

The fuel tanks have been remounted to the wings which takes about 2 hours.

The fuel caps surfaces were very rough, 0.020" variation, so I did not machine them. I mounted them in my lathe chuck, spun them at 280 rpm and held a scotch brite pad soaked in cutting oil against them for 5 minutes. They came out with a beautiful polish and I have sent them out for engraving.

Fuel Tank Removal

Calibration Facility

Pressure Testing


7/13 to 8/10



Stall Warning
As terrified as I was about cutting a hole in the wing, it went pretty smoothly. I first drill holes in the four corners which matched the radius of the cover plate supplied. Then connected the holes with a cutting wheel. Finished the cut with a hand file. I also had to cut the leading edge for the stall vane.

Vans had these parts on backorder with a promise ship date of mid to late July. The parts arrived first week of August. It was easy to install and I adjusted it to click off about mid way through its travel. I made sure I have adjustment margin above and below this setting. Done!

Cutting Hatch

Sensor Switch

7/24 to 9/1/08



Bottom Skins
This section of the plans includes: Pitot installation, Wing Wiring, Gap Fairing attach, and bottom skin attach.

Much angst over where to place the pitot. The Vans location has the push rod beneath it and is not suitable for heated pitots. The closest rib of the next bay out will put the pitot in the way of the tie down chain. I chose the far rib of the next bay out. I think this is ideal since I can still reach it from the bellcrank access and it is out of the way of the tie down chain. Pete is an accomplished RV-6 builder who came over to bend and flare my pitot tubes for me. Thanks Pete!

Pitot located in outboard
rib of next bay from bellcrank.


Gap Fairings
Straight forward cleco, match drill, deburr and rivet until you get to the area where the bottom skins are already installed. I'm still working on riveting in those bays. I only primed the inside of the fairings with Azco primer as I think the outside will be painted the color of the airplane. With two people riveting, all rivets were accessible for bucking.

Gap Fairings

Bottom Skins
I have the right wing outboard skin ready for installation. It takes about 8 hours per skin to match drill, deburr, dimple and countersink everything to be ready.

With help from RV-6 builder Pete, both bottom skins were riveted in place in a record setting 10 hours!! We had both wings in the cradles for riveting and we think that is best for 2 person riveting. Boy are my arms marked up from reaching inside that wing! Rivets along the rear spar in the center bays were the hardest.

Skin in Place

Skins Done!!

7/30 to 8/24/08



Aileron Actuation
Construction of the aileron torque tubes was exactly the same as the elevator torque tube that you made during the tail cone section.

The bellcrank bushing will need a 0.251" reamer to size properly for the AN3 bolts which I measured at 0.245".

The $1,000 TruTrak autopilot roll servo comes with pathetic instructions and you will have to reasearch installation from the web. The pitch servo has no instructions at all and the roll servo instructions read like they were translated from Chinese by a computer.

You will need a flat surface to make the wing root torque tubes. I used a table saw machined surface. I clamped stop blocks 17.750" apart and used that to set the tube length. Clocking was set using scrap from an aluminum spacer created in the bellcrank section. When I went to install to the wing, I noticed that the fuel tank spar did not have the flange bearing installed so check for this ahead of time.

Autopilot Servo

Wing Root Torque Tubes

8/3 to 9/1/08



Aileron Trim
Servo motor assembly was straight forward to build. I did not use the stack up of pieces as a center spacer as called for in the kit. I made a solid piece from 6061 which I think is a neater implementation. The motor is located under the first access plate from the wing root in the left wing. I plan on using a DE-9 connector for the wiring which came with the kit.

Aileron Trim Servo

9/1 to 9/7/08


24, OP-36

Wing Tips and Lighting
When placing the hole for holding the lens, I think the 5/16" measurement specified in the plans is too small for nutplate rivet clearance. This puts the standard nut plate rivets against the lens lip making it very difficult to rivet.  I would consider using L shaped nut plates instead. Also, I substituted CCC-32 cherry rivets for the AN426-3.5 rivets because I was afraid to buck rivets on the fiberglass.

If you build the light assembly per the plans, the retainer plate will distort as it is tightened against the light plate. To solve this I created a 70 deg wedge of dimensions 1" x 0.5" to give the retainer a flat surface on which to bear. The other modification is the addition of a spacer of length 0.130" in between the lamp holder and retainer ring. This is necessary because the lamp does not sit flush in the holder and the retainer will distort on one edge or the other as tightened.

I have done all the edge trimming of the wing tip assemblies to fit on the wing but am not attaching them until final assembly. There have been some reports of builders setting the wing tips to what they think is the neutral position on the wing cradles to only find out during final assembly that they are off a bit.

Lenses in Place


Wings are done, Summer heat is over, Life is good.


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