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RV-10 Cabin Cover Modifications
This page documents the modification I made to the cabin cover before installing. I added lights, ran wires, closed in the exposed hinge bolts and glued in a headliner. I am in no way a fiberglass expert. My only experience is with the empennage kit fairings.


Mounting of Map and Dome Lights
The dome and map light assembly is from a Chevy Tahoe. It has a center square mounting section that projects below the outside flange. I had to make a stand off to mount the light assembly.

1. Creating a foam mold. I used my bandsaw to make the angle cuts.

2. Covering mold in duct tape to facilitate removal after fiberglass applied. It worked too!

3. First layer of fiberglass applied over the mold.

4. One layer of fiberglass, foam mold removed

5. I put some filler on the inside to make it more rigid so I could sand a little before fitting of a second layer of fiberglass.

6. After 2 layers of glass

7. After 2 layers of glass and using bondo to smooth.

8. I ran wires for the lights from the front windshield support through the front lights and then along the top to the back lights. I put one layer of fiberglass over them, then filled with fiber bondo and then with gray bondo. You will see the finished look in the next section when I am working on the hinge bolt pockets.


Door Hinge Filling
The kit leaves the area where the door hinge bolts pass through exposed to the interior of the cabin in a recessed area. My idea is to make a plug that would cover the bolts but be removable in case a door needed to be removed or tightened. My first thought was to use 1/2" PVC pipe and have four plugs (or caps) per hinge. This did not work because the bolts are only 0.75" apart. Second thought was to encircle all the bolts at once using 2" PVC as the mold. So I used fiber impregnated bondo as the filler and a PVC pipe as the mold and this resulted in cursing, panic sanding and total failure. I realized that the mold would have to be internally released. So next attempt used light cardboard made into a circle and covered in duct tape to act as a release agent. This worked but my circles were slightly oblong and needed to be sanded round. After thought is to use this technique but stuff the center with round foam to hold the mold in a better circle. In any case, I now have my hinge bolts encircled so that a round fabic covered plug can be inserted and give a finished look.

1. Using PVC was a failure as there was no way to release it without damaging the filler. Maybe leaving it in place could work. Then a PVC insert would fit perfectly.

2. Cardboard mold in duct tape to facilitate removal after fiberglass applied. Area around the mold is filled in with epoxy flox.

3. This is just after molds removed. Circles are slightly out of round but I was able to correct that with a drum sanding disc in my power drill.

4. This is pretty close to finished after multiple applications of epoxy flox and bondo. Picasso would be proud.

5. After much angst over how to plug the holes, I stumbled across a test plug that fits a 2" dia ABS pipe. So back to the pipe idea. I epoxyed four 0.5" deep pipes in place.

6. This is the finished product covered in headliner.


The headliner used is wool with no backing (Cream 314) sold by Airtex Products. I almost bought foam backed nylon until I learned that when it burns it drips molten plastic on you and causes severe burns in a fire. The wool is better from the fire perspective. I installed it with 3M spray adhesive 90. I bought 5 running yards of material which is 60" in length. The first cut was 80" x 60" which covered the back. Next cut was 38" x 60" to cover the front. I still have material left to cover the upper halves of my doors.

1. Covering back. I went up sides until gravity was not helping.

2. Covering front.

1. Right side up. Then finished with gravity helping again.

2. After edge trim with razor blade. (except window)


Mike Andresen (AzCloudFlyer)
All Rights Reserved 2009
Last Update: 08Sep09